Australia: Plan your trip

P D F Plan your trip (PDF Chapter) Edition 17th Edition, Nov 2013 Pages 55 Page Range 6–60 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Useful Links • Welcome to • Australia Outdoors Australia • Bushwalking Want more guides? Head to our shop • Australia’s Top 25 • Cycling • Need to Know • Wildlife Watching Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here • What’s New • Skiing & • If You Like Snowboarding Need more help? • Month by Month • Where to Surf in Head to our FAQs • Itineraries Australia Stay in touch • Your Reef Trip • Diving & Snorkelling Contact us here • Your Outback Trip • Regions at a Glance © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Welcome to Australia Australia – the sixth-largest country on this lonely planet – is dazzlingly diverse: a sing-along medley of mountains, deserts, reefs, forests, beaches and multicultural melting-pot cities. Hip Cities Food & Drink Most Australians live along the coast, and Australia plates up a multicultural fusion of most of these folks live in cities. In fact, European techniques and fresh Pacific-rim Australia is the 18th-most urbanised coun- ingredients – aka ‘Mod Oz’ (Modern Aus- try in the world: it follows that cities here tralian). Seafood plays a starring role ? from are a lot of fun! Sydney is a glamorous col- succulent Moreton Bay Bugs to delicate lusion of beaches, boutiques and bars. Mel- King George Whiting, there’s variety in the bourne is all arts, alleyways and Australian ocean’s bounty. And of course, beer in hand, Rules football. Brisbane is a subtropical you’ll still find beef, lamb and chicken at town on the way up; Adelaide has festive Aussie barbecues. Don’t drink beer? Aus- grace and pubby poise. Boomtown Perth tralian wines are world-renowned: Barossa breathes west-coast optimism; Canberra Valley shiraz, Hunter Valley semillon and transcends political agendas. And the tropi- Tasmanian sauvignon blanc. Need a caffeine cal northern frontier town of Darwin and hit? You’ll find cafes everywhere, coffee chilly southern sandstone city of Hobart machines in pubs and petrol stations, and couldn’t be more different. baristas in downtown coffee carts. Arts & Culture It’s a Wide Open Road No matter which city you’re wheeling into, There’s a heckuva lot of tarmac across this you’ll never go wanting for an offbeat wide brown land. From Margaret River to theatre production, a rockin’ live band, Cooktown, Jabiru to Dover, the best way to lofty art-gallery opening, movie launch or appreciate Australia is to hit the road. Car music festival mosh-pit. This was once a hire is relatively affordable, road conditions country where ‘cultural cringe’ held sway – are generally good, and outside of the big the notion that anything locally produced cities there’s not much traffic. If you’re driv- simply wasn’t up to scratch. But these days ing a campervan, you’ll find well-appointed the tables have turned (and, if anything, caravan parks in most sizable towns. If Australian pride is a tad over-inflated). you’re feeling more adventurous, hire a Aboriginal arts – particularly painting and 4WD and go off-road: Australia’s national dance – seem immune to such fluctuations parks and secluded corners are custom- and remain timelessly captivating. made for camping trips down the dirt road. 7 RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IM AGES © Why We Love Australia By Charles Rawlings-Way and Meg Worby, Authors We’ve both been living on this great southern land for 30-something years, and there are still places here that we haven’t explored. This isn’t to say that we’ve been sitting at home eating popcorn and watching David Attenborough – we’re travel writers! It’s just that Australia is so damn big. Even if we spent the next 30-something years on an endless round-Australia road trip, there’d still be surprises out there. And that, for a couple of restless road-addicts, is a very comforting reality. For more about our authors, see p1112. Above: Kakadu National Park, p841 Australia INDONESIA EAST SAVU SEA TIMOR Cobourg Melville Peninsula Island 10°S ToDwanr wanind &co Kunatkrya dtruo pNicPal TISMEOAR BaItshluarnsdt Da^#rwin #÷Ja#\biru wilds (p813 and p841) Kakadu Cape National Londonderry Joseph Park 15°S IONCDEIAANN LeCvaepqeue KiWmTybhnederhleaBymon#\GaupK#\laufnrutenurVraictoriareRvi W#\aDKteMaarl#\taysht#\earrianneka Broome & Northwest WA Broome#]Derby#\ CrFoistFzsriinot#\zgyr o y RiverC#\Hraelelsk Miraculous desert and Tennant#\ Creek sea colours (p1004) NORTHERN PortHedland#\ TERRITORY 20°S NorthDampier#\#\Karratha The UlurSuom-Kea stear iTojuustlay NP West Pilbara big red rocks (p891) Cape Exmouth#\ MacDonnellR#]anges #\Newman Gibson Alice Desert Springs WESTERN Yulara LittleSandy #\ Desert AUSTRALIA #÷ Carnarvon#\ KaUtlauTruju-ta 4 25°S SBhaaryk VGicrteoartia NationalParkMarla#\ Desert SOUTH 44 South Australian AUSTRALIA \#Mt Magnet Wine Regions #\ Coober INDIAN Top drops down south (p774) Pedy Geraldton#] OCEAN Kalgoorlie NullarborPlain #] -Boulder Eucla#\ Ceduna 30°S #\ Perth^# Norseman#\ Fremantle#] GreatAustralian Bight BuBsusnebltounry#\#] \#Wagin #\Esperance Melbourne MargaretRiver#\ Arts, sports and LeCeaupwein A#]lbany kick-arse coffee (p478) Great Ocean Road 35°S World-class road trip ELEVATION Perth & Fremantle (great surf!) (p535) Wild-west beaches, bars and 2000m restaurants (p907 and p925) 1500m Cradle Mountain 1000m SOUTHERN Photogenic peak in 750m Tasmania’s wilds (p701) 500m OCEAN 250m MONA 0 Hobart's cool, confronting 40°S and classy gallery (p631) 110°E 115°E 120°E 125°E 130°E 135°E e# 0 500km 0 250miles ARAFURA TSotrrareits MorePsobryt#_ SEA Thursday Cape PAPUA SOLOMON Island York NEW GUINEA ISLANDS #\Nhulunbuy Arnhem Weipa#\ Land Groote CapeYork CORAL Eylandt Peninsula Cape SEA Melville CarGpuelnftoafria Great #\#\CPooorkt tDoowunglBaasrrierR BDturtaotpienircftlarilee sjeu, Rnbgeaaliecn h(fpoe4sr 5ea2sn)td #\Normanton #]#\CInanirinsfsail eef Great Barrier Reef Charters#\In#]gThoamwnsvGirleleatBarrier Snorkelc oovraerl (kpa4le19id)oscopic MtIsa#\ #\CloncurrFylindersTRoiwveerrs#\ #\B#\oABweirealniceh WRheietfsunday #]MackayIslands #\Winton Longreach#\ #\Barcaldine Great 4SDimespes4rotn #\Birdsville QUEENSChLaAr#\leNvGilDrleeatDividingR BuHned#]ravRbe#]oeycGrBgklaah#]yda#\smtFIopsrntlaaoesnnedrT#÷ropBMicaarorrfiineCeraPRpareireckforn Lake a 44EyreNo44rth Party-pGroolnde C thoeamste park egn #\#\MNoaorosoachydore AuPgo#]urLstatSkaoeuEFltinhyderrsRawengesonBdrHo#\ekilrlelnaDnadrl i(png31RN6i)vEerW#\BSotuB#\rGkNaeeyornrwggoaenn#\RiveTroowTA#\worTmeoae#\mmiddwabH#]loaee#]rat#\P#\hdGo^#sCrr#\#\oB#\#\taSfBfCrMftusiyoosraroHnfobcleaanaqrrnsBnubgPoaaeaauytrtirraeadise PSOAOCCUEITFAIHNC Whyalla#\ SOUTH #\Dubbo P#\eKPLnEaiIoniysnnrclrtgasoeaunlnrldaooA^#MBdreu#\irdlragaieydHeorVsShIwaC#]ma#]nTSMHhOiilleld#\RpuWHpIrWaaaAayrgtGA#\Mog#]ranLiuffWErit#\rahSaWg#]#]ygoAaR#]dlbGioCvunooerguwryal#\r#_bauCrB#]#\nAa#\tBNh#\auKB#]traes^#WEtmtoRoSoa#]RlmynlNosAdbnenBagwaeoycynagstle mHusiipcBp fyieerssLot, ion(svIrNus adBlSrlaHsfaWn oy(adpw)n1de8 4) MtGambier#\ Ballarat#] ^#Melbourne TASMAN Warrnambool#] Gee#]long SEA Cape Bondi Beach Otway Wilsons The definitive Australian Promontory King Bass beach (p92) Island Strait Flinders Island Devonport Sydney Opera House Launcesto#]n#] Architectural opera in the Queenstown#\ TASMANIA Harbour City (p74) 140°E ^# 150°E 155°E 160°E Hobart 1100 Australia’s Top 25 Sydney Opera House Great Barrier Reef Magnificent Sydney Opera House (p74) on UNESCO World Heritage–listed? Check. 1 2 Sydney Harbour is a headline act in itself. An Oprah Winfrey–endorsed? Check. The exercise in architectural lyricism like no other, Great Barrier Reef (p419) is jaw-droppingly Jørn Utzon’s building on Circular Quay’s Ben- beautiful. Stretching more than 2000km along nelong Point more than holds its own amidst the Queensland coastline, it’s a complex eco- the visual feast of the harbour’s attention- system populated with dazzling coral, languid grabbing bridge, shimmering blue waters and sea turtles, gliding rays, timid reef sharks and jaunty green ferries. Best of all, everyone can tropical fish of every colour and size. Whether experience the magic on offer here – a stun- you dive on it, snorkel over it or explore it via ningly sited waterside bar, acclaimed French scenic flight or glass-bottomed boat, this vivid restaurant, guided tours and star-studded per- undersea kingdom and its coral-fringed islands formance schedule make sure of that. are unforgettable. 1 GARY KOUTSOUBIS / GETTY IM AGES © ARCHITECT: JØRN UTZON 1111 2 JEFF HUNTER / GETTY IM AGES © 12 MONA Uluru-Kata Tjuta Occupying a riverside location a ferry National Park 3 ride from Hobart’s harbourfront, No matter how many times you’ve 4 Moorilla Estate’s Museum of Old & New Art seen it on postcards, nothing prepares (MONA; p631) is a world-class institution. you for the grandeur of the Rock as it first PL Described by its owner, Hobart philanthro- appears on the outback horizon. With its A pist David Walsh, as a ‘subversive adult remote desert location, deep cultural sig- N Y Disneyland’, three levels of underground nificance and spectacular natural beauty, O galleries showcase more than 400 often Uluru is a special pilgrimage. But Uluru-Ka- UR controversial works of art. Visitors may not ta Tjuta National Park (p891) offers much T like everything they see, but it’s guaran- more. Along with the equally captivating RIP teed that intense debate and conversation Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), there are mystical A will be on the agenda after viewing one of walks, sublime sunsets and ancient desert US Australia’s unique arts experiences. cultures to encounter. Below: Uluru T R A L IA 3 ’S TOP 25 LEIGH CARMICHAEL / M ONA © 4 ALAN COPSON / GETTY IM AGES © 13 5 6 DAVID HANNAH / GETTY IMAGES © ALASTAIR POLLOCK PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TR IP A U S T 7 RA L STEVEN WARES / GETTY IMAGES © IA’S TOP 25 Melbourne Daintree Great Ocean Road Why the queue? Oh, Rainforest The Twelve Apostles ? 5 7 that’s just the line to Lush green rainforest rock formations jutting 6 get into the latest hot ‘no replete with fan palms, out of wild waters ? are bookings’ restaurant in prehistoric-looking ferns one of Victoria’s most vivid Melbourne (p478). The and twisted mangroves sights, but it’s the ‘get- next best restaurant/chef/ tumble down towards a ting there’ road trip that cafe/food truck may be brilliant white-sand coast- doubles their impact. Take the talk of the town, but line in the ancient, World it slow while driving along there are things locals Heritage–listed Daintree roads that curl beside would never change: the Rainforest (p452). Envel- spectacular Bass Strait leafy parks and gardens in oped in a cacophony of beaches, then whip slightly the inner city ‘burbs; the birdsong, frog croaking inland through rainforests clunky trams that whisk and the buzz of insects, alive with small towns and the creative northerners you can explore the area big trees. The secrets of to sea-breezy St Kilda; and via wildlife-spotting night the Great Ocean Road the allegiances that living tours, mountain treks, (p535) don’t stop here; in such a sports-mad city canopy walks, 4WD trips, further along is maritime brings. The city’s world- horse riding, kayaking, treasure Port Fairy and renowned street-art scene croc-spotting cruises, hidden Cape Bridgewater. expresses Melbourne’s tropical-fruit orchard For the ultimate in slow fears, frustrations and tours…Whew! If you’re travel, walk the Great joys. Above: Centre Place lucky, you might even spot Ocean Walk from Apollo an elusive cassowary. Bay to the Apostles. 14 8 9 PLAN YOUR ROBERT FRANCIS / ROBERT HARDING / GETTY IM PATRICK OBEREM / GETTY IMAGES © TRIP AGES © A U S T RA 10 L IA’S ANDREW TOP 25 WATSON / GETTY IM AGES © Byron Bay Gold Coast Gourmet Food & Up there with kanga- Brash, trashy, hedon- Wine 8 9 roos and Akubra hats, istic, over-hyped… Right across Aus- 10 big-hearted Byron Bay Queensland’s Gold Coast tralia you’ll find (just Byron to its mates; (p316) is all of these gourmet offerings for all p184) is one of the endur- things, but if you’re look- budgets: cool-climate ing icons of Australian ing for a party, bring it wines and cheeses in Tas- culture. Families on school on! Beyond the fray is the mania, coffee and fabulous holidays, surfers and sun- beach – an improbably Greek and Italian in Mel- seekers from across the gorgeous coastline of bourne, oysters and sea- globe gather by the fore- clean sand, warm water food in Sydney, punchy red shore at sunset, drawn to and peeling surf breaks. wines and riesling in South this spot on the world map The bronzed gods of the Australia, marron in West- by fabulous restaurants, a surf, Australia’s surf life- ern Australia, and native chilled pace of life, endless savers, patrol the sand meats and bush tucker in beaches and an astonish- and pit their skills against the Northern Territory. The ing range of activities one another in surf car- nation’s many wine regions on offer. More than that, nivals – gruelling events have spawned a culture of they’re here because this involving ocean swimming, fine cuisine using regional is one of the most beautiful beach sprints and surf ingredients – if you’re tour- stretches of coast in the boat racing. Also here ing the cellar doors, you’ll country. are Australia’s biggest never be far from a starchy theme parks – a roller- white tablecloth and a coaster nirvana! Top right: romantic lunch. Surfers Paradise