?stanbul - Lonely Planet

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ?stanbul “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Virginia Maxwell Contents PPllaann Y Yoouurr T Trriipp page 1 4 Welcome to ?stanbul ......4 If You Like ......................18 Eating .........................26 ?stanbul’s Top 10 ............6 Month by Month ...........21 Drinking & Nightlife .....................31 What's New ...................13 With Kids ......................23 Shopping ....................34 Need to Know ...............14 Like a Local ..................24 Hamams & Spas .......38 Top Itineraries ..............16 For Free ........................25 Explore ?stanbul 40 Neighbourhoods at a Western Districts .......102 Üsküdar .......................146 Glance ..........................42 Beyo?lu .......................113 Ferry Trips from Sultanahmet & ?stanbul ......................150 Around ..........................44 Be?ikta?, Ortaköy & Bazaar District ............83 Kuruçe?me .................139 Sleeping .....................165 Understand ?stanbul 175 ?stanbul Today ............176 History .........................178 ?stanbul on Page & Screen .........................192 Architecture ................186 Survival Guide 197 Transport ....................198 Language ...................208 Directory A–Z ............203 Index ............................219 ?stanbul Maps 228 GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IM IZZET KERIBAR © AGES © (left) Grand Bazaar pf(T(oaTr8brau5 odsr kaviCtieliseoo)hl noB tauealr vymfeoure?ln ylla)uhm apnp1es1 3 GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IM (Croiglohut)r Afuyl ad eScoofryaat ipo4n 6 AGES © inside Be?ikta?, Ortaköy & Kuruçe?me p139 Western Beyo?lu Districts p113 p102 Üsküdar p146 Bazaar Sultanahmet District & Around p83 p44 40 IZZET KERIBAR/GETTY IM AGES © Explore ?stanbul Neighbourhoods at Beyo?lu ........... 113 Ferry Trips a Glance ............42 top sights ...............115 from ?stanbul ......150 sights ...................117 the bosphorus ...........151 Sultanahmet & Around .............44 Eating ..................124 the Golden Horn ........159 Drinking & nightlife .......131 princes’ Islands .........162 top sights ...............46 Entertainment ..........135 sights ...................69 Sleeping ...........165 shopping ...............136 Eating ...................76 activities ...............138 Drinking & nightlife .......79 Entertainment ...........80 Be?ikta?, Ortaköy shopping ................80 & Kuruçe?me .......139 activities ................ 81 top sights ...............141 sights ..................142 Bazaar District ......83 Eating ..................143 top sights ...............85 Drinking & nightlife ......144 sights ................... 91 Entertainment ..........144 Eating ...................94 shopping ...............145 Drinking & nightlife .......97 activities ...............145 shopping ................99 activities ............... 101 Üsküdar ...........146 sights ..................148 Western Districts ...102 Eating & Drinking ........149 top sights ..............104 sights ..................107 Eating & Drinking ........ 110 41 ?STANBUL’S TOP SIGHTS aya sofya ................46 Aya Sofya ..........................46 topkap? palace ...........55 Topkap? Palace ..................53 blue Mosque .............64 Blue Mosque.....................64 Istanbul archaeology Museums ................66 Istanbul Archaeology basilica Cistern ..........68 Museums ..........................66 Grand bazaar ............85 Basilica Cistern ................68 süleymaniye Mosque .....88 Grand Bazaar ....................85 spice bazaar .............90 Kariye Museum Süleymaniye Mosque ......88 (Chora Church) .........104 Spice Bazaar ....................90 ?stiklal Caddesi ...........115 Kar?ye Museum ?stanbul Modern ..........116 (Chora Church) ...............104 Dolmabahçe palace .......141 beylerbeyi palace ........152 ?stiklal Caddesi .................115 H?div Kasr? ..............153 ?stanbul Modern ...............116 Rahmi M Koç Museum ...159 Dolmabahçe Palace .........141 228 ?stanbul Maps Map Legend Sights Sports & Activities Routes Geographic Beach Diving/Snorkelling Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Canoeing/Kayaking Freeway Lighthouse CCahsritsletian SSkuirifningg Primary LMooouknotuatin/Volcano Hindu Swimming/Pool Secondary Oasis IJselwamisihc WWOtaihnlekdrisn uSgrpfoinrgts & LTaenrteiary PPPaaicrsnksic Area Monument Activities Unsealed Road Waterfall Museum/Gallery Information Plaza/Mall Ruin Post Office Steps Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Tourist Information River/Creek Zoo Tunnel Intermittent River Other Sight Transport Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Airport Overpass Reef Eating Border Crossing Walking Tour Canal Eating Bus Walking Tour Water Cable Car/Funicular Detour Dry/Salt/ Drinking & Nightlife Cycling Intermittent Lake Drinking & Nightlife Ferry Path Glacier Cafe Monorail Parking Boundaries Areas Entertainment S-Bahn International Beach/Desert Entertainment Taxi State/Province Cemetery Train/Railway (Christian) Shopping Tram Disputed Cemetery (Other) Shopping Tube Station Regional/Suburb Park/Forest U-Bahn Marine Park Sportsground Sleeping Underground Sight (Building) Sleeping Train Station Cliff Top Sight Camping Other Transport Wall (Building) 1 1 1 1 1 229 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 111 Y?ld?zORTAKÖYPark Y?LD?Z KTA? HAC? HESNAHATUN 111111ÜSKÜDAR LACAK KEFÇEDEDE ?HSAN?YE1111111111111111111111KaracaSE?M?YE1111111Ahmet11111111111111 2km1mile E?? SA Ð"7 B ?ANTA?? MaçkaPark ?Ð"2 )içiza?oB( tiartS surohpsoB e#00 11111111111111Feriköy111OKMEYDANINIMezarl???11111111BOZKURTKURTULU?1111111HARBIYE111 Ð"3ELMADAP?YALEPA?A TARLABA?I ÇUKURCUMA GÐ"o4ldBEYO?LUen Horn (Ð"8HGALATAaliç) KARAKÖY TAHTAKALE1SaraçhanePark00SÜLEYMAN?YE0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000CA?ALO?LU000000000000000000000LALEL?00000000000000000Ð"5KUMKAPI00MEYDAN?0000KADIRGASultanahmetParkÐ"1Ð"6 Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) 1 1 1 1 1 U R H 11111111Musev?11111Mezarl???11111HALICIO?LHASKÖY BALAT R ÇAVU? FENE FAT? AKSARAY ZI HI 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 11 1 MAP INDEX Sultanahmet & Around – 1North (p44) Sultanahmet & Around – 2South (p44) Bazaar District (p83)3 Beyo?lu – Northeast (p113)4 Beyo?lu – Southwest (p113)5 Be?ikta?, Ortaköy & 6Kuruçe?me (p139) Western Districts (p102) 7 Üsküdar (p146)8 Kariye Museum (p104)9 230 e#0 200m 0 0.1miles A B C D 1 f#Bof#spFhef#orrriueFsse rEtroxie cÜsus rtksoüi oKdnaa dFr?ekröryy Golden Horn (Haliç) B(Boosp?ahzoirçui)s 1 SULTANAHmET & AROUND - NORTH423AH?TÇCiaürCYera mkEm?aaMEtsolfLE?aBai?emtac dòb#le-iSrKa? n laasANlkii niyu?eCyÇönldaeadbdos?le dHkö ?iteuCi ?aiCaCnCrk¤o#la Sn?lM#únS1üaüAuacdm5?kaA?ddR oa?RMChollAae FLSspeenemr AKia sSnkqEiaSakredLEua?kMdkr1a tdaCaOeCei0yØ#¤11#DcTHß##úe??93#úi¤i#cüA#úECaLkAbrR1ünaUe2ÿk#a1umtdrh0as#ïaeCne aStks#æ#û#úd Kÿ2#f#uH1ou3YAn6üSRS1lBeNdaCdCa4r?tiaa yera?C£ö#aav kiibSkelsrötbsaakwne?i tdtdieoF#úakc8 al9iengüteniiya hc#ærCrCranraaaÿ#Cyddn2æ#a etd52¤#â#o 2Cÿ# AlHemdaGraC?ad1sadüt2â#rÿ#laheâ#sSam6y2KnAooâ#4eey4nfn yaA#÷narkea#ædâ#7sGiy Süÿ2#P?AMCkls1aPh#3rartuClac#úka#æad15snhh8ynee#æi(g1albSdu2reouarmoeuhlnlnsiol'dsCgYæ#oyoTulou(rFpt) ikorsaf tV#pJ Ca? TPPnoiauoaslrlpsaatack)creaieeps?SS(Sae1ra7raarü#yag#æbyluiboru nPruoniun)t 432 A B C D ææ TTooppSSiigghhttss (p(0p0406)) úú EEaattiinngg (p(0p0706)) ØØ SSppoorrttss&&AAccttiivviittiieess (p(0p0802)) AAyyaa SSooffyyaa..............................................BB44 CCaaffeerraa??aa MMeeddrreesseessii 1188 AAyyaa ??rriinnii....................................................CC44 BBaassiilliiccaa CCiisstteerrnn..........................BB44 LLookkaannttaa && ÇÇaayy 1199 CCaa??aalloo??lluu HHaammaamm??..............AA33 ??ssttaannbbuull AArrcchhaaeeoollooggyy BBaahhççeessii............................((sseeee 2244)) MMuusseeuummss........................................CC33 99 CCiihhaannnnüümmaa........................................BB44 ÿÿ SSlleeeeppiinngg ((pp010608)) TTooppkkaapp?? PPaallaaccee............................CC33 1100 FFaassuullii LLookkaannttaallaarr??....................AA22 2200 AAggoorraa LLiiffee HHootteell........................AA33 HHaaff??zz MMuussttaaffaa ............((sseeee 1100)) AAnndd HHootteell................................((sseeee 99)) ææ SSiigghhttss (p(0p0609)) 1111 HHooccaappaa??aa PPiiddeecciissii..................AA22 2211 AAyyaassooffyyaa KKoonnaakkllaarr??..............CC44 11 AAllaayy KKöö??kküü..........................................BB33 1122 KKaarraakkooll RReessttaauurraanntt..............CC44 2222 CChheeeerrss HHoosstteell................................BB44 22 CCaaffeerraa??aa MMeeddrreesseessii..........BB44 1133 KKoonnyyaall?? LLookkaannttaass??....................AA22 2233 NNeeoorriioonn HHootteell................................BB22 33 FFoouunnttaaiinn ooff SSuullttaann MMaattbbaahh..................................((sseeee 2244)) 2244 OOttttoommaann HHootteell AAhhmmeett IIIIII............................................CC44 1144 PPaa??aazzaaddee................................................BB33 IImmppeerriiaall..............................................BB44 44 GGüüllhhaannee PPaarrkk..................................BB33 1155 SSeeffaa RReessttaauurraanntt........................AA44 2255 SSiirrkkeeccii KKoonnaakk..................................BB33 55 IImmppeerriiaall GGaattee..................................CC44 66 ??ssttaannbbuull MMuusseeuumm ooff ûû DDrriinnkkiinngg&&NNiigghhttlliiffee( p(p08000)) tthhee HHiissttoorryy ooff 1166 KKyybbeellee CCaaffee........................................BB44 SScciieennccee && 1177 SSeett ÜÜssttüü ÇÇaayy BBaahhççeessii......DD22 TTeecchhnnoollooggyy iinn IIssllaamm........................................................BB22 ýý EEnntteerrttaaiinnmmeenntt (p(0p0800)) 77 SSoo??uukkççee??mmee SSookkaakk............CC44 HHooccaappaa??aa CCuullttuurree 88 SSuubblliimmee PPoorrttee................................BB33 CCeennttrree....................................((sseeee 1111)) 231 SULTANAHMET&AROUND-SOUTHMaponp232 æ TopSights (p64) 31 Cocoon.......................................................D5 Blue Mosque.............................................D4 32 Galeri Kayseri.............................................B1 33 Iznik Classics & Tiles.................................E4 æ Sights (p69) 34 Jennifer's Hamam.....................................E5 1 Aya Sofya Tombs......................................F2 35 Khaftan......................................................C5 2 Great Palace Mosaic Museum..................E5 36 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery.......................D5 3 Hippodrome...............................................C3 37 Tulu............................................................B4 4 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain........................D2 38 Yilmaz Ipekçilik..........................................H4 5 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)................D2 6 Little Aya Sofya..........................................A6 Ø Sports&Activities (p81) 7 Marmara University Republican 39 Ambassador Spa.......................................D1 Museum..................................................B4 40 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamam?...........F2 8 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts...........C3 41 ?stanbul Walks...........................................C5 9 Nakka?........................................................C5 42 Les Arts Turcs...........................................D1 10 Obelisk of Theodosius...............................C4 Müzenin Kahvesi................................(see 8) 11 Rough-Stone Obelisk................................C4 43 Urban Adventures.....................................D1 12 Sokollu ?ehit Mehmet Pa?a Mosque.......A4 13 Sphendone.................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p168) 14 Spiral Column............................................C4 44 Acra Hotel..................................................F5 15 Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I............................D3 45 Bahaus Hostel...........................................F4 46 Dersaadet Hotel........................................D6 ú Eating (p76) 47 Emine Sultan Hotel...................................D6 16 Ah?rkap? Bal?kç?s?.......................................F6 48 Erten Konak...............................................E6 17 Bal?kç? Sabahattin.....................................G5 49 Grand Peninsula........................................G4 18 Çi?dem Pastanesi.....................................B1 50 Hanedan Hotel..........................................G3 19 Cooking Alaturka.......................................F5 51 Hotel Alp ...................................................G3 20 Haf?z Mustafa.............................................D2 52 Hotel Empress Zoe...................................G3 21 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu......C1 53 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha ................................B4 S 22 Teras Restaurant......................................H5 Hotel Nomade..................................(see 26) U 54 Hotel Peninsula.........................................G3 L T û Drinking&Nightlife (p79) 55 Hotel ?ebnem............................................G3 A 23 Cafe Me?ale...............................................E4 56 Hotel Uyan ?stanbul..................................F3 N 24 Denizen Coffee..........................................B4 57 Marmara Guesthouse...............................G3 A 25 Dervi? Aile Çay Bahçesi............................E3 58 Metropolis Hostel......................................G4 H m 26 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar.......................D1 59 Motif Apartments......................................G3 E 27 Yeni Marmara............................................C6 60 Sar? Konak Hotel.......................................F5 T 28 Ye?il Ev.......................................................F3 61 Sultans Royal Hotel...................................C6 & 62 Tan Hotel....................................................C1 þ Shopping (p80) A R 29 Arasta Bazaar............................................E4 O 30 Cankurtaran Produce Market..................C5 U N D - S O U T H 232 Key on p231 A B C D OUTH1 ÇEMBERLkTürbe?darTASk? 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